Friday, 19 April 2019

Wingan Inlet – Bubbles Maiden Voyage Easter 2019


R.I.P


On 11th April 2018 we lost our beloved beast!! 

We were both shattered beyond belief over a car!!!




GM had generously lent an overseas guest the Beast to use while GM was at work.  Our young guest had never driven on our roads, or probably even on a hill as he was from the Netherlands.  Maybe even had never driven on dirt!!  Might even have been a wee bit jet-lagged as well but took her for a drive down one of our local country roads that had been in poor condition, lost control and rolled the beast.  Never to be driven again. 😭.  Luckily our guest came out of it unhurt.

If you listen carefully, you can hear her pain..

And off she goes 😭πŸ˜ͺ

A local farmer helped strip the Beast and stored all the goodies like the Engel, the drawer system and the brand new spare tyre.  What a champion!!  People here will help themselves to whatever they can find and then set the cars on fire, so that's why we stayed to see her off.  He's also the one who lent his phone so that I could be contacted to come and get our guest.  GM had gone back to work over in Western Australia a couple of days before.  Our tow truck driver Ernie got lost and took hours to get there, so we waited and waited and got eaten alive by mozzies.  There had been 8 stubbies of beer in the Engel, and only 1 was smashed in the accident.  Luckily there was also bottled water, as it was a warm day and night and I hadn't had a drink since lunch time.

It’s been a long time between adventures as it’s taken over 12 months and close to my yearly income to replace her and bring Bubbles up to our travel standard.

Introducing Bubbles!
Bubbles is a wee bit more luxurious than the Beast.  She has been given the moniker “Bubbles” because of her champagne colour and her luxury fittings and leather seats.  She’s also automatic, so doesn’t require as much personal effort.  We weren’t convinced she’d be as good a workhorse as the Beast, and Wingan Inlet was to be her first test…...albeit an easy one considering where we’ve been before and what we were planning for later in the year.  Bubbles passed with flying colours!!  And I hate to say it, was far more comfortable on the long drives.  The seats are like lounge chairs and there seems to be a bit more room inside.  There’s also the power of the V8 diesel…...wow does she move!!  We were won over for now.

Wingan Inlet





Found in the Croajingalong National Park, 36km from the Highway near the NSW border, 380km from home and a nice leisurely 5 hour drive.  East this time instead of the usual west.
This was just a 3 night break that was well overdue for the pair of us.  It was an easy drive in from the highway through an avenue of tall bloodwood trees that seemed to touch the sky.  The dirt road was well maintained and although it’s recommended for 4WD only, you could bring a normal car in quite easily.  Just a couple of places you’d need to go slow.  There didn’t seem to be too much undergrowth, so there must have been a burn off within the last year or so.  It was quite isolated, so would have been scary in bushfire season if they’d not cleared it. 


I had booked our camp through Parks Victoria which requires a 4 night minimum stay at Easter.  I’d heard it gets quite busy, but we were quite surprised to find a lot of empty camps available.  There was several sites that only stayed a night, so probably hadn’t booked.  Large middle eastern family groups, but they left the place clean and snuck out quietly very early in the morning, and their kids were sweet and friendly.
Cheers!
You weren’t allowed to have your own campfire, but there were communal fire pits in the middle of the campgrounds.  The sites were very private, and I picked well considering we had no idea what we would be getting.  The web site didn’t show pictures of the sites. 

The beach was beautiful and so pristine!  Access was via boat or the Fly Cove Walking Track that started in the campgrounds.  Wingan Inlet is also included in the wilderness coast walk.  I’d really like to do that one day.  Just gotta convince GM that walking is actually good for you πŸ˜‰

We had a daily visitor to our camp…. Joanna the Goanna…...she’d come and lay in the sun and didn’t seem the least bit bothered with us being there.  She’d move with the sun, and then disappear up a tree late afternoon, only to be seen again the next afternoon when the sun shone down.  The trees and vegetation were so thick that not much sun managed to reach ground level.  This also helped in sheltering us from the cool wind that blew in from the water.
You can hear her coming way before you see her.  She's certainly not afraid to make a noise :)



We set up camp and went for a leisurely walk to the coast along the Fly Cove walking track.  A 3km return windy track through the paperbarks, with boardwalks along the edge of the inlet to stop you falling in and getting wet and muddy.  Each time we came to the edge of the inlet, hundreds of tiny crabs would scurry back into their holes.  There were bright orange crabs, electric blue crabs and lots of little black crabs.  By goodness they’re fast little critters! The beach had no rubbish anywhere.  It was so very clean 😊.  This is what happens when people can’t get into places by car!!










There were rocks fairly close to the shore.  These are called the Skerries and are home to Australian and New Zealand Fur Seal colonies.  I zoomed in as far as I could, and it wasn’t until I saw the photo’s that I realised how many there were. 



There was a local fella fishing at the mouth of the inlet, and he seemed to be catching some nice sized mullet for dinner.  There was a cheeky pelican trying to sneak up and pinch the ones he’d caught.  It kept me amused for ages πŸ˜‰.


Back to camp for a couple of lazy drinks, nibbles and then dinner.  I vaguely remember starting to read a book, but I had my recliner chair and ended up having a quite pleasant nanny nap instead. 😊
Day two saw us hop into Bubbles and go to do the Wingan River Rapids walk.  This was only a 5km return walk and supposed to take 2.5 hours.  We snorted at that, as the track is already cleared by Parks Victoria, so there’s no way it should take that long right??  WRONG!!!!  What the guide didn’t say was it was an almost vertical walk on damp and sometimes slippery ground.  It was hard work just getting down to the river…the walk back out and up, up, up!!!! was far worse than imagined.  It was so hard, and we were so out of condition, but it was very beautiful in there amongst small patches of rain forest.  We sat on the rocks for a little while, had a snack and drink and then made our way back out.  GM slipped and fell hard on the rocks.  Thank goodness he didn’t do any damage.  I’d just told him to be more careful, when I went down, landing on an elbow and head.  A little bit shaken and nothing was broken thank goodness, or I’d have had to be choppered out.  The wet rock was the same colour as the shadows, and deadly.  The ground was very rich with rotted plants and some of the fungi was amazing, their colours incredible.






Day 3 we went for a walk to Elusive Lake.  A 6km return walk that was far easier than the Wingan River Rapids walk.  This walk meandered through the bloodwoods.  It was quite warm, so we welcomed the shade.  Elusive Lake was quite a surprise.  It’s completely hidden from view right up until you break through the trees and there it is right in front of you, surrounded by forest and lined with sandy beach.  The lake is 22m deep in places with no surface water flowing in or out.  All water entering or leaving the lake is through rain or seepage.  It was so peaceful and sheltered here and you couldn’t even hear the ocean, although it wasn’t too far away.  This was a good walk for us as it loosened the old joints and muscles that were painfully paying for the previous days’ efforts!

Wingan Inlet is a lovely place to relax and the facilities were clean.  I would have liked to have taken the kayaks, and if we ever return, that’s just what we’ll do as the inlet was perfect for that.
We went home via the coast, through windy bush tracks to Thurra River campground where we nearly had a quick peak at Point Hicks Lighthouse (closed for Easter!!) and decided a 7km walk uphill in the drizzle and wind wasn’t on the agenda for the day.  Then through the windy bush tracks to Peach Tree Creek which has a fantastic looking camping area, with boat launching, beach and inlet, so that’s been put on the list of quick short weekends…. maybe a boat and tent weekend.  A pity we can’t tow both the boat and Barbara!  

We slowly wound our way through the windy roads and back to Cann River where we stopped for lunch at the bakery.  The place was mobbed!!  Everyone heading home from their Easter break.  I wonder if theirs was as relaxing as ours?

A great place for family groups and far enough away from the main road to be peaceful.  A lovely part of the country!

The only thing I didn't like was the sound of the wild dogs at night.  They're killing an awful lot of the native wildlife, but Parks Victoria are baiting, so hopefully they will be able to eradicate them before too much damage is done.

We made it home in time for dinner and work the next day!

Next stop……Simpson Desert…...can’t wait!!!








So smokey.  Left overs from the summer fires.




 
Our new flat pack fire pit.....it's a beauty!!!!

Cheeky currawongs were trying to get the dripping from the BabyQ while it was still cooking.  These cheeky fella's were super friendly and kept our site so clean, there were no bugs!

Kept my feet quite warm!!


Monday, 31 July 2017

To the Top & Back - Barbara's Great Cape York Adventure 2017


OK, so we finally made it!

OK, so I finally got around to doing the blog!!
and it only took 2 years!!!!!!



Stats

  • 8 weeks
  • 11,969km
  • Diesel usage = 2235.2 litres
  • Total Diesel Cost = $3184.67 
  • Average Fuel economy = 5.56km per litre
  • 1 x Broken rear window
  • 1 x sheared roof rack bolt
  • 1 x dent in rear bumper (The handbreak on Barbara failed)
  • 1 x Shredded tyre.....going offroad to collect firewood
  • 4kg weight gain = Suzy
  • Lots of Midgey scars = Suzy
  • Nearly broken wrist/crushed hand = GM
  • Post Holiday Blues = GM & Suzy
  • Destination Cape York 2017 – www.cape-york-australia.com = our Bible for the trip.
©

2014 was when it was supposed to happen, but you know how life gets in the way sometimes?  (Trip to Europe, return trip to Uluru and Kings Canyon, New house to build, etc, etc.) No more excuses!! 2017 is the year, and we’ve done it!!  We’ve lived another dream, and all with a little bit of help from Barbara 😊

Yesterday we touched the tip, and I reckon that’s when GM’s luck changed as well πŸ˜‰


I haven’t been doing my blog weekly as planned, I haven’t been taking notes as regularly as I used to.  I feel almost resentful at the thought of having to sit at the computer, but here’s my office this afternoon in the shade of the Punsand Bay Camp resort...bar and all….Scotch and Dry thanks….Cheers!!....., just to make it easier to get motivated.  The music is chill and the geckos are doing their little kissy calling noises.


I’ll start with yesterday, Thursday, 17th August around 8.30am in the morning.  We made our way to the very northernmost tip of mainland Australia via a 7km shortcut over a very sandy 4WD track.  There was one other car in the carpark when we got there.  We have heard so many stories on the way here about the hour-long queues for pictures at the tip, so we thought we’d head off before the tour buses.  After a 10 minute walk/climb among the rocks we finally reached the tip, fully loaded up with the camera, tripod, champers and our new fancy unbreakable wine goblets from Carnavon Gorge, only to find we had the place all to ourselves!!  How awesome is that right????  We took the obligatory tourist pics, drank a bottle of champers that we bought in Emerald QLD, (we drank the really good stuff at Carnarvon Gorge on the way up here) and all the while the sun shone down on us.  Million dollar views, the works!!  Then down came Luke, Kelly and Kelly’s brother Jay from Albany in WA.  We’re on first name terms with everyone we’ve met or waved to on this trip.  This is how we Cape York vets roll you know πŸ˜‰  Anyway, they’re doing the North, South, East, and Westernmost points of mainland Australia.  Lucky kids!!  



I stood right on the edge to take this, so I've been further north than GM!!





People have their memorials here....nice idea :)
By this time, the sun had disappeared behind the clouds for the morning, the odd spray shower, and temperature down to around 28oC.  After taking a heap of pics for the kids, the first busload of oldies made their way down over the rocks.  Some of them were a wee bit wobbly, so we all helped them get to the tip and took some amazing pics for them.  I love that they’re doing something so remote that most Aussies wouldn’t even contemplate.  I don’t think that most people are aware of how close and accessible most of this country is if you try and think outside the box.  We tend to get so caught up in the seriousness of work and money that we overlook the importance of living.



We then went for a drive to Somerset Bay where Cape York's original council and administrative centre was based before relocating to Thursday Island (or TI as the locals call it).  There’s not much there, a cross, the Aussie flag, and three indigenous graves.  We toodled around for the rest of the morning, drove along the 5 beaches and then ended up at Cable Beach. (Just around the bend from Punsand Bay where we’re staying at the moment.  If you ever decide to make the effort, Punsand Bay is a fantastic set up…..especially good compared to some of the places we’ve stayed!
We’d packed some spam and salad wraps with garlic aioli…..note the spam….we really are living the high life at the moment!😜











After fishing advice from some local guy called Dale (we’d been comparing tan lines at the bar the night before) – I think he’s a Torres Strait Islander – he won! - We chose to do a bit of fishing and lo and behold!!!  GM caught a fish off the beach!!!  One that was actually big enough to eat!!!  We had it for lunch today with a salad and it was superb😊 
Dale you're a legend!!!!
See!!  His luck changed the day he touched the tip!!  I expect fish for dinner whenever he goes fishing from now on!!  Nearly 60 and nearly a fisherman…Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!!!!! (See, you’re never too old to learn!!)

I think maybe it’s time to go back to where it all began………..

We left home on Friday 21st July, 2017.  It was cold, dark and bloody freezing….minus 1.4 degrees, foggy, wet and miserable, but we hardly felt a thing, we were so excited!!  I’m not sure if it was because we were going on an adventure or because we were going to where it was warm!

Our first day was a non-tourist day that would take us to an old school mate of mine.  The drive was dull and dreary until around 9.30am when the sun came out.  GM pulled his sun visor down only to discover two of his workmates smiling sweetly at him.  There were a lot of “What the's" followed by a few choice words that turned my delicate little ears a deep rosy colour.  They didn’t want him to forget about them during his weeks away.  Jacqui and Trevor live in the middle of nowhere…Ariah Park….a tiny community in the south of NSW which is “famous” (I use this word very loosely) for its “Wowsers, Bowsers & Peppercorn trees”.  It was lovely to catch up, and we went for dinner at the Temora hotel with Jacqui, her daughter Emily and daughter-in-law Tay who had made the effort to drive all the way from Wagga to see us.

Up and out early the next morning, another freezing cold morning of minus 4 or so, which saw Jacqui and Trevor with burst water pipes, and flooded laundry and bathroom.  This has been such a cold frosty winter. Good thing I filled the kettle for them the night before or they wouldn’t have been able to even have a cuppa!!

We stopped at the West Wyalong bakery for toasties and coffee and then on to Parkes.  This is the place that has the satellite dish that transmitted man’s first walk on the moon.  Interesting little place, with an Elvis museum, some awesome cars and the dish itself, which is what I found most interesting.  It’s also the first time I saw Apostle birds.  I could just take them all home with me.  They are so funny and full of character, and very cheeky.





 



We kept going up the Newell Hwy until we reached Dubbo, and then decided to do the tourist drive through the Warrumbungle NP where we eventually found a camp for the night.    What a beautiful spot.  NSW do amazing National Parks if this one is anything to go by.  There were Kangaroos everywhere, and the Park and facilities were amazing.  The only thing extra they could have done for us was turn the heater on.  Another freezing night! Warm as toast under the covers, but you can’t stay there forever, especially if you need to get to Cape York.  GM had a bottle of Glayva that mum had given him for his BD, so this certainly helped warm the insides (thanks Mum xx)  










The next day saw another full day of driving, pretty much no sightseeing, but we camped up not that far from the QLD border,  a little off the road where we woke again to a well below freezing morning.  This one was the worst of the lot as there wasn’t a spot of condensation on anything.  I’ve never ever been anywhere as cold as this without moisture.  It hurt to touch anything!


The next morning saw us reach Roma, and then Injune in QLD.  GM worked in Injune a couple of years back building the water treatment plant for a gas plant, so we went for a drive to check that out, then onto Carnarvon Gorge.  A really good drive!



Painted Silos.....we didn't see too many of these but there sure are clever people out there!  I can't remember whether these were in NSW or QLD

Carnarvon Gorge!

WOW!

I’m coming back here!
This is surely one of the 7 natural wonders of the world?
Put all the gorges in the Kimberley together and there you have it!
Back to Carnarvon Gorge!
I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it certainly wasn’t this!  I had pictured your standard gorge like over in the Kimberley, but this place is one gigantic gorge filled with the most beautiful gorges, creeks, and scenes you could imagine.

We stayed at Takarakka camping ground, a little like a 5-star resort for campers.  No pool, but that was fine as we had natures swimming pools around us.  There was only one waterhole you weren’t to swim in, as that was where the platypus live.

Takarakka camping ground has happy hour each evening where you can have a beer or wine and some nibblies, but you have to watch the cheeky kookaburras that swoop down to pinch your cheese and crackers the moment you turn your head away!  We enjoyed our happy hours in the company of Ros and Robyn from Shepparton and helped celebrate Ros’s birthday in grand fashion with a lovely bottle of bubbles.

It was so very lovely that we stayed an extra night 😍
























The Happy Hour Bar




Another day of driving and temperature was significantly warmer, with a strange little camp on the side of a culvert.  No more icy nights for 2017 fingers crossed!


We leisurely made our way to Port Douglas via Emerald, Charters Towers, Townsville and Cairns. (we camped nearby in GM's workmates backyard in Balgal Beach)  Thanks Dave, your hospitality was amazing and so was your shower! 😊


The local bar....very quiet that day!

Beautiful beaches, but deadly!

Cairns....lost my good set of reading glasses here!
We were only half way up the state of Queensland.  It’s then you realise just how immense it really is.  We tend to hug the coast, but I’m so glad we took the inland route as there is so much beauty there.....and a lot of dead roos on the road......south central Queensland has a dead roo about every 100m.






We camped up at Port Douglas for 3 days where we played the tourist to perfection!!


A wonderful day spent snorkelling in the inner reef and a wander around Sand Island.





Another day spent at the local market on the waterfront where we bought some natural cream to stop mozzies, sandflies and other stinging insects, made of lemongrass and smelled delicious but didn’t work one little bit!  Bought a beautiful Sarong from the main street which I would later accidently leave at a villa in Bellagio much to my disappointment......some other lucky tourist would no doubt score!

We went to Mossman Gorge.  This place was well worth the visit.  The visitors centre is also a hospitality training centre for the local indigenous community.  It was run beautifully and they should be extremely proud of their training.  Even the bus to the gorge was driven by a local elder of the community.  The community itself was very clean and tidy and you can see the pride they hold.  A nice change from some of the places we’ve been.  The Gorge itself was beautiful and the walking track easy and well maintained.

And then there was the Daintree!  Heaven!!  The world’s oldest lowland tropical rainforest and the trees were amazing.  We didn’t see any Cassowary, which is fine by me!!  Nasty things, but I was a wee bit jumpy just in case.


























It was time to leave the luxury of civilisation and brave the wilds of Cape York.
We took the Bloomfield track to Cook Town, stopping at the Lion’s Den Hotel in Rossville for lunch and souvenirs....caps and singlets thanks very much!







It was getting late, so we found a campsite at Archers Point just south of Cooktown.    This place was incredibly windy, and we struggled to set up camp and find any shelter.  We went for a wander along the bay and watched Kite Surfers having a grand old time.




The next morning found us camped up at the local caravan park in Cooktown.  Cooktown!!!  What a fantastic place for anyone interested in Aussie history.  This is where it all began baby!!  If they hadn’t been able to get the endeavour into the river, they would have sunk and we wouldn’t be here today to tell the tale.  Or we’d all be speaking a different language.

The museum was so educational from both the English and Indigenous tellings.  We were there for ages absorbing as much as we possibly could.  We went to the look-out hill that Captain Cook used to see if he could get the ship in.  Fantastic views!

We wandered around the town taking in everything, had a lovely meal and a couple of beers at the pub.










We went for a drive to Elim Beach (another indigenous community) and the coloured sands, quite lovely little camping place there that would have been more relaxing than the caravan park at Cook Town.












I thought the mozzies were bad in Cook Town, but they weren’t to be my problem.  The sneaky little midges were my downfall.  I ended up having quite a severe reaction to them, but thought they would settle down.  They didn’t!


We left Cooktown and made our way up to Cape Melville National park, and stayed at “Crocodile Camp” at Bathurst Bay.  It was a wonderful drive in but very slow and difficult in places.  The sand was so soft that we barely had any air left in our tyres to get through.  We only got bogged once but were lucky enough to reverse out.


Isabella Falls....the road goes right through the top of them.

We're about to get serious now....it's to be a long break between bitumen!



The Old Laura Homestead at Lakefield National Park.  The 2nd largest NP in QLD after the Simpson Desert

The shearers quarter



Huge flocks of these red tailed black cockatoos and you can hear the noise from them over the sound of the engine for miles.



A Rainbow Bee Eater






Before we’d even set up camp a pod of dolphins had swum by about 20m from the edge of the water.  By this time, my hands and feet were like balloons and I had lumps the size of golf balls all over my arms, legs and neck, and was feeling a little drained, so GM set up camp while I tried my luck at fishing.  We had no bait, so I used a rusty old lure and lo and behold, before GM could even get his rod in the water, I’d caught us a beautiful Golden Trevally for dinner.  And lunch the next day!!
The next day was gloriously sunny and I was pretty crook by then, but still managed to catch a decent sized blue tipped salmon that was not too bad, but nowhere near as nice as the Trevally.  That day saw a rather large shark feeding in the bay about 10m from the water’s edge.  It was quite amazing to watch it threshing around on top of the water.  We had a swamp behind us and at night you could hear the baby crocs calling out.  There were a couple of other camps set up in the distance, but it was still like having the place to ourselves.






Delish!!!




Golden Trevally

Blue tipped salmon
We had only been there for 2 nights, but I wasn’t getting better, so we left our little patch of paradise and headed for Coen, the closest medical centre to us.  The first night saw us camped on Annie’s River where I was confronted by a snake.  I’m pretty sure it was a Taipan or Eastern Brown.  GM assures me it was just an olive python, but I wasn’t going for a closer look.  I must admit I impressed myself with how fast I can run😊.



The swamp behind our camp......you could hear the baby crocs calling at night!


Ants really are strange creatures!!



This is what will close it off to the public eventually.  Lazy filthy pigs!!





Blue Kingfisher

Sand Monitor

Brolga


Magpie Geese


Annies Creek
Coen is a small town on the Main Peninsula Road.  It was chocka block full of motorbikes and 4WD’s, the pub was humming....it was the only place that seemed to have any shade.........and we had a fairly decent clunk coming from underneath the floor of the beast by the time we got there.  I found an indigenous medical centre and they agreed to help me.  The nurse was a FIFO nurse from Northampton in WA, lovely woman, but she had to call someone to get permission to even issue me with antihistamines.  Meanwhile, GM had found someone to help him fix the exhaust mount on the car.  He had to weld it up and Graeme the local Pastor had all the gear and experience to help him.  He wouldn’t accept payment other than allowing him to bless us.  GM withheld this detail from me for quite some time.  We camped up next to the river just out of town, a beautiful and clean fresh water river where I zombied out for the rest of the day and GM bless his little heart washed our clothes.
Inside the Coen Pub

GM getting his domestic on!!
One of the best places....under the Coen bridge!
The drugs hadn’t done much, so we had a change of plan and headed to Weipa to access a pharmacy.  It turns out this was a really bad year for midges and “they” were warning everybody to take antihistamines 2 weeks before they headed north.  We must have missed that warning!!  GM was advised to take them as well.  He had a number of bites, but not a severe reaction.

We met a lovely family, Brian, Val & daughter, who gave GM some freshly caught Barramundi for dinner because they felt so sorry for me.  They were having a spot of bother as they went through one of the river crossings too fast and put their car into limp mode.  It looked like it was going to be a very slow and long trip home for them.  There were a few cars in limp mode and we saw a couple being towed away with their caravans attached.  We spent 3 days in Weipa, the biggest town on the Peninsula and known for Bauxite mining.  We both really liked this place and met quite a number of people in the caravan park who we would continue to meet along the way.









By the time we left Weipa, I was well on the way to recovery.  The swelling had gone down in my hands and feet, the golf ball lumps were virtually non-existent and I was just scabby looking by this time.




Now it was time for the real adventure!  The OTT or Old Telegraph Track....this is what lures adventurers and 4WD’ers to the cape.

We turned off at Bramwell Junction after fuelling up and treating ourselves to an ice-cream.  We drove to the first of the river crossings....Palm Creek. 



Unfortunately the young ones had chewed up the chicken track with their need for speed and we were unable to get across without taking the side out of Barbara.  




$10k to get towed out!






We stayed for an hour or so watching others do the crossing and having a chat with a few people.  There was a serious queue waiting to get across.  It was too late in the day to drive around to Gunshot Creek (the next entry point to the track) so we headed off to Captain Billy Landing on the east coast for the night.  It was a beautiful drive in through rain forest and amazing coastal views but very windy when we got there.  A week after we’d been there, the 5m croc had been reported circling someone’s tent in the morning and a big brown snake was seen under the steps to the toilet block, so we probably left there at just the right time 😊

The Heathlands we drove across to get to Captain Billy Landing
Captain Billy Landing




The little caves in the cliffs were full of bats and crabs



This place sorts out the weak from the strong.
The next morning we headed back to the track and came in at Gunshot Creek where we met up with the people from the previous day.  We hooked up with Dave, Jeanette and Brad from Mackay for the remainder of the track and had a wonderful time.  GM was having a blast with his river crossings.  I was standing in one of the rivers with a bunch of other people when a nosy snake decided to pop its head out of the bank.  I think it was more scared than I was as it popped back into its hole before I even had time to bolt!!!





This was a grave of one of the cable layers, and his cable plough.

After a very social day with all the 4WDers, a fabulous bunch of kids, we camped up at Elliot falls for the night.  We’d stopped at Fruit Bat Falls on the way for a swim. 



What a spectacular place....paradise!!!!  Elliot Falls was pretty good too J  








These hungry suckers were growing along the edge of the pools
The next day we completed the track, ending with Nolan’s creek, the only one we had to get winched out of, and then we crossed the Jardine River.  You’re no longer allowed to drive across as it’s far too dangerous and there are crocs everywhere.  So you have to catch the ferry.  This costs about $170 per vehicle and includes the return crossing and camping in the national parks.  I think we worked it out at $33 per minute.  We were getting close!!  



We drove to Bamaga.  Another mainly indigenous town, very clean and quite interesting.  We saw a couple of WW2 plane wrecks and stayed in the Seisia (Saysha) Caravan Park.  Seisia is where you catch the ferry to the Torres Strait Islands. 








The barber shop on Seisha Beach

This is where the Ferry to Thursday Island leaves


Our crazy neighbours followed us from Weipa

The kids in camp thought they were awesome :)
Nearly everyone we’d met so far on the cape was staying there.  It was fun. 
Note the old junk behind the yacht on the left.....We were to see it being towed out to sea a week later where they were going to skuttle it.  This had been a refugee boat that had been seized by customs.

One of my most favourite pics :)





 

A couple of old wrecks!

Afternoonsies with Jeanette, Dave & Brad
The 2nd day we were there GM decided to wash the beast.....I wanted to throttle him!  The red dust was like a trophy and we ended up with the only clean car within a 1000k’s!!  It just about glowed in the dark!!!


We took the ferry across to Thursday Island and learned quite a bit about the Torres Strait Islanders, their history, and the differences between them and the Aboriginals.  While we were there we decided to do a pub crawl.  We had a beer in both pubs then caught the ferry back to Seisia.




A bit of protection......

The Torres Strait Islands.....almost close enough to touch

ok

The firepits
The next morning we packed up and headed north to Punsand Bay.  It was Wednesday 16th August.

After saying a very sad farewell to the northernmost tip of Australia, we said our farewells to newfound friends and started making our way south.  We had more adventures ahead of us. 






Making itself quite at home on Barbara!!

GM caught a Stout Long Tom

An Archer Fish (I think)

The biggest fish for the day


We turned off not far down the road and made our way to Mutee Head South, a beautiful camping spot about 1km before the mouth of the Jardine River.  It was supposed to be heavily infested with crocs but I couldn’t for the life of me find even a sign of them!  It was hard going getting into the camp as the sand was so soft and the track quite narrow and windy.  It was a glorious outlook though and well worth the trip.  We caught a few inedible fish and GM caught the most evil looking thing I’ve ever seen....we threw it back.  A Stout Long Tom.  We had Rainbow Bee Eaters swooping us all day long and their chirping is just beautiful.  We also had the miracle of watching a dolphin round up fish and run them onto the beach to feed.  GM forgot to press record in his excitement, and I just filmed the sand because I was so enthralled with the whole thing I forgot to hold the phone up!!  I don’t think David Attenborough would be too impressed with us!


Sadly we were running out of time, so we made our way down the Frenchman’s Track and camped the night on the Wenlock River before heading down to the Pascoe River crossing, one of the most difficult on the cape.  GM was beside himself with excitement!!  We drove all the way to Lockhart River, a rather dark and dirty community that didn’t feel in the least bit safe, where we stocked up on supplies and then made our way to Chilli Beach........sensational!!!  We had no booze much to GM’s horror, but we did have fresh coconuts much to my delight!!!  We went for lunch at Portland Road and it was lovely 😊














Chilli Beach


Chilli Beach Camp Grounds

Portland Road.  There is only one restaurant, and strictly no alcohol.....we just managed to survive this!!!!




After a couple of nights it was time to go, time to leave the Cape.  We headed south to Laura, camping wherever we could on the way, mainly along dry river beds, then got to Laura and stocked up on booze.  Can’t be getting used to a dry camp!!!  We made our way down to the Atherton Table Lands,





just amazing and would love to do a bit more exploring there........the tablelands are so fertile and green after the cape!!  We drove west along the Savannah Way, across to the Undara Lava Tubes and resort,




then Karumba on the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria where the sunsets are just spectacular.  After catching up on some laundry, we headed into Normanton, had a look around and caught the old train to Croydon....2 hours and very slow and boring on the trip back!!  But the old train was just fantastic and the Normanton Railway Station was great 😊  



This is a scale replica of the largest Croc shot here at Normanton......Fancy cowardly hiding behind a tree and shooting something that's taken years to get to this size, just for the notoriety....what a bloody hero!!





Time to head south 😭

We drove down a long dirt road heading to Gregory Downs


and much to our surprise we came upon camp 119....the furthest point north Burke and Wills got.  This piqued our interest in the history of their exploration.  We were to learn a whole heap about them in the next couple of weeks.  We camped for the night at Gregory Downs and made our way to a place called Adel’s Grove next to the Lawn Hill National Park, about 50km from the Northern Territory border.  If I thought I’d seen paradise before, then I was mistaken.  This is the most breathtaking place I’ve ever been.  The property of Adel’s Grove occupies an area of some 30 hectares (80 acres) and extends from Lawn Hill Creek at one end to Louie Creek at the other. It was originally gazetted in 1904 as a Miners Homestead Lease. In 1920 Albert de Lestang took up the property as an experimental Botanical Garden (hence the name “Adel” arose from Albert’s initials). Albert planted many species of trees and shrubs and supplied the Botanical Gardens of the world with the seeds produced by his nursery.
We canoed up the Lawn Hill Gorge and wandered amongst thousands of Fruit Bats, this place is amazing, with hikes to do, a fabulous resort and the weather is bliss!

The water was like milk due to the calcium content.  It was so warm and dry here.







I never want to leave this place, but alas, we had another life to go to.


We drove forever, stopping to check out the Miyumba Riversleigh World Heritage Fossil Fields, boring!!! Unless you're into this sort of thing 😜


Then down through the Barkley Tableland


They were all so curious and friendly :)
















All you need is frozen pastry, tinned apples, custard, a campfire and a jaffle iron and voila!!  The perfect apple turnovers :)
to Mt. Isa, where we stocked up on supplies and checked out the town.  It was very warm there.

We made our way to Boulia, the area is best known for sightings of the Min Min lights, mysterious shimmering lights that appear at night, but we didn’t stop.  We drove to nowhere in the middle of nowhere,


Nowhere in the middle of nowhere!!!







then onto Diamantina National Park where we spent a couple of nights at Hunters Gorge.  And this is where we first encountered flies.....gazillions of flies.....in your ears, eyes and nose!!!  😩  This had been given a great write-up in a magazine we subscribe to but it wasn’t very nice there at all, especially after the last 6 weeks we’d just had.  I did catch a fish though πŸ˜‰

Slight difference between the national parks in Victoria and here!!!




Yes, I can even catch a fish in a puddle whilst in my pyjamas!!
We left Hunters Gorge and drove to nowhere in the middle of nowhere again and made our way down to Birdsville.  About 2km’s before town we ran out of fuel.  The fuel gauge hadn’t been working properly and we weren’t sure how much we had in the tank.  Luckily we were carrying a bit of spare fuel hey!!  After getting up and running again, we got into Birdsville.....the day after the races.....there were a lot of hangovers by the look on the faces of the people there😊We went to the pub for a beer after filling the fuel and water supplies.  The place was packed!!!  You couldn’t hear the person next to you and you couldn’t move without spilling your beer.







We decided to keep going for a couple more hours and made our way south to Cardillo Downs where we camped up for the night in a deserted outstation.  (Cadalga Outstation) I really enjoyed it there, but we found our back window smashed from a rock when we were passing all the race goers on the road in to Birdsville.
Our roof rack bolt had also sheared off, so a bit more patching up was needed before we headed off.  We were taking the more isolated track to Innamincka.   Along the way we passed a group who had lost the axle off their camper trailer and were in all sorts of strife, and had a long boring wait for help to arrive.  We drove and drove and stopped and had a coffee at Gina Reinharts place (a little cow pond on Innamincka Station) which we shared with about a hundred zebra finches.  Coming into Innamincka was hysterical.  We rounded a bend to see 4 emu’s running across a culvert straight at us.  We weren’t quick enough to get the camera out but their faces were exactly like the cartoon paintings you see everywhere.






People are getting fed up of the losers who have no respect for our Country.  This includes the filthy toilet paper dumped all through our roadways.....we have a huge asian tourist population that are very good at this and don't give a hoot what they dump.




This was Barbara rolling into the car and it nearly took GM's hand off with it!!



Heading south 😒






Coffee at Gina Rineharts place.....Innamincka Station
We had a beer at the Innamincka pub....as you do......then made our way to the Cooper Creek for a couple of nights, camping a couple of hundred meters from where Wills died.  And there were even more flies here than Hunters Gorge!!!  We went and had a look at the Dig Tree where Bourke died, and read a lot of history about them.  It was ignorance and arrogance that actually killed them.  I caught a turtle, and didn’t want to fish anymore after that, and GM managed to completely slash one of his tyres looking for firewood.  The nights were far cooler now so it was getting harder and harder to get out of bed.











I caught a Turtle 😭and that's the end of my fishing!!!

We drove to Cameron’s Corner via Moomba and had a beer there too πŸ˜‰  This is where QLD, NSW & SA meet.  Got pics of GM behind the dog fence then drove to Tibooburru, had lunch at the pub, played ball with a dog called Suzy and bought a book called the “Dig Tree” which was a biography on the Burke and Wills expedition.  It was a great read.  Now I know a lot more about our history than our schools ever taught.



The dog fence

The end of the parallel sand dunes on the North East of the Simpson Desert




GM behind the dog proof fence πŸ˜›


The local Cinema....they had a few plastic chairs floating around

Suzy




We headed down to Broken Hill, but had hired a cabin as it was just so freezing at night.  We did a tour of the silver mine and town the next morning then headed to Mildura where we hired another cabin for a couple of nights.


Needs a bit of a wash!!!
Waaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Then we went home.  We didn’t want to go home.

It will be a couple of years before we get a chance to go outback again.  2018 is Italy.

We live in the most amazing country in the world.  Very few of us ever leave our own back yard or if we do we go overseas.  It may take a week of driving to get from one end of the country to the other, but if you ever decide to make the effort, you’ll get to experience the whole wide world in one hit without crossing any oceans other that Bass Strait or Endeavour Strait (both on ferries)!!!   Well, we did it!!  Why not give it a go? 

A bit of fun on the old telegraph track.......





Down into Captain Billy Landing









The Pascoe River Crossing on the Frenchman's track....the hardest of the crossings apparently.....







See you soon!